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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.